12/03/2024John Galliano has completed his mission at Maison Margiela—a masterpiece few contemporary designers could undertake.
Much has been written about what Galliano achieved with Margiela, so let’s address a question on many minds:
What will Maison Margiela look like after John Galliano?
Still good—and that’s the truth.
The years 2023-2024 have been immensely successful for Maison Margiela, both in terms of media attention and commercial performance. Galliano excelled at weaving Maison Margiela’s narrative in his signature way. Yet, his true strength wasn’t commerce—it was storytelling.
The Visionary Role of Rosso
Renzo Rosso, founder of OTB Group, has been instrumental in Margiela’s business success. Known for his keen eye for working with bold fashion designers, Rosso entrusted Galliano with full creative freedom after his personal scandals—a second chance to revive his artistic voice.
This decision wasn’t just about friendship or humanity. It was a calculated move by Rosso, who understood the shifting landscape of luxury fashion. In a market where collections increasingly resemble one another, how do you distinguish a brand? The answer lies in cultivating a powerful design DNA. Galliano was the perfect candidate, focusing on the cultural significance, grandeur, and timeless value of his work.
Maison Margiela: “ A look back at Katy Perry’s fitting for the 2017 MET Gala. The outfit combines a number of elements taken from the Maison Margiela Spring-Summer 2017 ‘Artisanal’ collection by John Galliano. The look took over 350 hours to complete by multiple seamstresses in Maison Margiela’s atelier, with an additional week needed for the garments to be fully embroidered.” Photographed by Kevin Tachman.
Tapping Into the Psychology of Luxury
Rosso’s strategy resonated with the psychology of luxury consumers. Modern shoppers seek more than just products; they want to stand out, connect with a compelling story, and carry a legacy. This is why Galliano’s creations for Maison Margiela continue to captivate—a testament to the value of exclusivity and artistry.
Unlike LVMH’s broad luxury expansion, Rosso built OTB Group brands like Maison Margiela, Diesel, Jil Sander, and Marni as distinct, high-end niches. He gave Galliano unparalleled freedom with Margiela’s Artisanal collections, removing commercial pressures and letting him focus solely on creating bold, timeless works that inspire reverence and academic study.
A Legacy Etched in Fashion History
Galliano’s Artisanal collections became the cornerstone of Margiela’s brand identity, influencing its diffusion lines, such as MM6. This approach not only safeguarded the brand’s artistic integrity but also contributed to steady revenue growth—even during economic downturns. OTB Group reported double-digit growth, with Maison Margiela generating approximately $500 million in revenue in 2023, with continued growth in 2024.
While many buy Maison Margiela not just for Galliano but for its enduring brand identity, this success is inseparable from Galliano’s decade-long contributions. The iconic unstitched logo, minimalist branding, and a sense of elevated luxury all bear his imprint, while also honoring the foundational legacy of Martin Margiela.
Life After Galliano
Even without Galliano, Maison Margiela is well-positioned to thrive. Its robust branding, deep-rooted narrative, and timeless appeal mean it isn’t overly reliant on any single individual. Rosso’s brilliance lies in empowering talent while ensuring the business operates independently of any one figure.
Maison Margiela will continue to captivate audiences, building on its strong foundation of craftsmanship, storytelling, and innovation. As Galliano steps away, his legacy will remain an indelible part of the brand’s DNA—a testament to his transformative impact.
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